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8 magnificent and very rare suites of 18th-century, uniformly coloured costumes plates

[COLOUR PLATE BOOK - COSTUMES].
[Eight suites with a total of 180 engraved coloured costume plates].

With two engraved title-pages, one engraved dedication leaf, and 180 costume plates, all uniformly coloured by hand and most of them heightened with gold (ca. 1750), many within yellow painted frame.

With two engraved title-pages, one engraved dedication leaf, and 180 costume plates, all uniformly coloured by hand and most of them heightened with gold (ca. 1750), many within yellow painted frame.

With two engraved title-pages, one engraved dedication leaf, and 180 costume plates, all uniformly coloured by hand and most of them heightened with gold (ca. 1750), many within yellow painted frame.

With two engraved title-pages, one engraved dedication leaf, and 180 costume plates, all uniformly coloured by hand and most of them heightened with gold (ca. 1750), many within yellow painted frame.

With two engraved title-pages, one engraved dedication leaf, and 180 costume plates, all uniformly coloured by hand and most of them heightened with gold (ca. 1750), many within yellow painted frame.



Augsburg, Jean André Pfeffel (1), Jeremias Wolff (2-6) & Paris, F. Chereau (7) and Le Rouge (8), [ca. 1720-1750]. 8 suites. Folio. Contemporary half calf with red morocco title label lettered in gold: "Costumes en Couleurs", red painted edges. With two engraved title-pages, one engraved dedication leaf, and 180 costume plates, all uniformly coloured by hand and most of them heightened with gold (ca. 1750), many within yellow painted frame.

Very fine collection of eight very rare suites with in total 180 costume plates, beautifully picturing the costumes of various countries and cities in Europe, the Ottoman Empire, the entire world (including plates of American Indians, Africans, and people from India), and military costumes from France and Hungary. All plates and title-pages beautiful coloured by a contemporary hand, many heightened with gold.
Apart from the last suite of 20 uncut plates which are somewhat smaller, the other plates are printed on large paper (38.8 x 24.5 cm) with broad margins. In the upper margin of the plates the two original prickings to hang out to dry, are still present.

The collection consists of the following suites (sometimes bound in a rather confusing order: the numbers between square brackets refer to the sequence in which the plates are bound in):
(1) Title in German and French [149]: Schweitzerisches Trachten-Cabinet oder allerhand Kleidungen, wie man solche in dem ... Canton Zürich zutragen pflegt / Le Cabinet de toutes les modes d'habits. les quels on porte dans loüable Canton de Suisse, qui s'appelle Zurich [Augsburg, Johann Andreas Pfeffel, ca. 1750]: 20 numbered large engraved plates (ca. 30 x 19.5 cm) of Swiss men and women: councillors, ministers, burghers, farmers, etc. all places in the city of Zürich or its surroundings with engraved explanatory texts underneath with references to the buildings depicted, giving a wonderful image of early eighteenth-century Zürich [4-22, 35].
(2) A suite of 12 unnumbered large engraved plates (ca. 29.5 x 19.5 cm) by Jeremias Wolff at Augsburg after the designs of Jacob Andreas Friderich (1683-1751), of men and women of Nuremberg, with engraved legends in German, Italian and French with city-scapes of Nürnberg in the background [Augsburg, Jer. Wolff, ca. 1720]: very interesting plates of a bride, groom, minister, councillor, city officials, a fool ('Pritschen Meister bey dem Schiess Haus'), a versemonger with copper wall plates with mottos sewn onto his clothes, farmers, a woman with her rain cloth standing before the characteristic towers of the Nürnberg city wall, etc. [2-3, 24, 27-34, 38]. Very rare: no other copy could be traced.
(3) A suite of 6 unnumbered large engraved plates (ca. 30 x 19.2 cm) by Jeremias Wolff at Augsburg of men and women of an unidentified German city (Augsburg?), with engraved legends in German, French and Italian [Augsburg, ca. 1720]: a girl in winter on her way to church, a burgomaster, midwife, city official, woman in mourning (2x), etc.  [1, 23, 25-26, 36-37].
(4) A suite of 14 unnumbered large engraved plates (ca. 30 x 19.5 cm) by Jeremias Wolff at Augsburg of men and women of Strassbourg, with engraved legends in German, French and Italian [Augsburg, Jer. Wolff, ca. 1720]: a messenger, , minister, bride, groom, women in winter and summer with a huge hat, in mourning, a gardener, city officials, country women, etc. [39-52] . Very rare, no other copy could be traced.
(5) A suite of 24 unnumbered large engraved plates (ca. 30 x 19 cm) by Jeremias Wolff at Augsburg of men and women from various parts of the world with engraved legends in Latin [Augsburg, Jer. Wolff,  ca. 1720]: a Hispanus, Helvetius, Polonus, Hungarus, Russus, Moscovita, Persicus, Arabs, Samojedus (Siberian), Guinensis, Tartarus, Aegyptus (with two 'pyramids'), Japo (Japanese), Barbarus (North African), Aethiops, Peruvianus (Indian), Brasilianus (Indian), Incola Floridae (Indian from Florida), Ambianaeus, Guineae incola (inhabitant of Guinea), Malabaricus (India), Abysinus (North African), Graecus, Turca. [53-75, 77]. Very rare: not in Colas or Lipperheide; no other copy could be traced.
(6) A suite of 72 unnumbered large engraved plates (ca. 30 x 20 cm) of people living in the Ottoman Empire, by Jeremias Wolff at Augsburg (38) and his heirs and his son-in-law Johannes Balthasar Probst - Jeremias Wolff died in 1724 - (34), with legends in French and German [Augsburg, (Heirs of) Jer. Wolff, ca. 1720-1730]: Greek woman, Turkish girls, all kinds of court dignitaries of the 'Grand Seigneur': the 'Grand Visir', 'Moufti', 'Emir', 'Bey' (Capitaine de galere (galleys)), pages, eunuchs, various women of the harem, his cooks, gardeners, the 'Grand Seigneur' in the Serail, an Imam, the guard, the Janisars, 'La Sultane',  a Derwish, Turkish merchants (a.o. a coffee seller), people from various parts of the Ottoman Empire: Armenia, Albania, Persia, Greece, Hungary, Moldavia, Bulgaria Turkish dancers, the Patriarch of the Greek Orthodox church, priests, Jews in Turkey. [76, 78-148]. Very rare: not in Colas or Lipperheide; no other copy could be traced.
(7) A site of 12 numbered large engraved plates (ca. 33 x 21.5 cm) by De la Fosse, A.C. Boucher, P. Aveline, and Major after the designs of Philibert Benoit de La Rue (1725-1780), with engraved legends in French of the uniforms of the soldiers and officers of the French army. Engraved allegorical title-page by Desbruslins after Babel [150]: Nouveau recueil des troupes legeres de France levées depuis la présente guerre, avec la date de leur creation, le nombre dont chaque corps est composé; leur uniforme & leurs armes (Paris, F. Chereau, 1747), and engraved dedication by Chereau to the Dauphin, also by Desbruslins [151]. Plates of the 'Volontiers de Saxe, Uhlans', id. Dragons, Chasseurs de Fischer, Arquebusiers de Grassin Infanterie, id. Cavalerie, Fuseliers de Montagne, id. de la Morliere, Croates infanterie, Bretons volontaires fuseliers, id. Hussarts, etc. [152-163].
(8) A suite of 20 (out of 21) unnumbered engraved plates (ca. 27 x 19 cm) on somewhat smaller uncut leaves, with engraved legends in French. Title on one of the plates [166]: Recueil des differends habillements des trouppes qui composent l'armée de la Reine de Hongrie ramassées sur les frontières de ce Royaume (Paris, Mde. Le Rouge, 1742). Colas 2504 calls for 21 plates, numbered 2-22: Paris, Charpentier, n.d. ("Je n'ai pas vu de pl. num. 1"). In our copy 'nr. 18' ("Croate armé de lance") is missing; Colas 2218 alls for 21 plates, numbered I-XXI (Paris. Le Rouge, 1742), with the title Nouveau Recueil ... Apparently our edition - also dated 1742 - is the earlier one. Collection of very interesting plates of the uniforms of the army of the famous Marie-Thérèse (1717-1780), Queen of Hungary (from 1740 on) and later Empress of the Holy Roman Empire, during the War of the Austrian Succession (1740-1748): a 'Soldat Hongrois d'infanterie', Tolpatch Hongrois, M. Menzel 1er Colonel des Houssards, Un morlacq, Tolpatch de Wallachie, Houssart noir, Pandoure de Sclavonie, Tolpatch en marche, etc. [164-183].

A few plates with a small marginal tear; binding slightly rubbed. The fine plates in very good condition.
Ad 1: Colas 2339 ("Chaque planch est gravée à la manière des Bonnards ... il existe des exemplaires coloriés"); Lipperheide 920 and ill. on p. 401; ad 2: Colas 1131; Lipperheide 782; ad 7: Colas 1780 (doesn't mention the dedication leaf); Cohen 602; cf. Lipperheide 2293; Vinet 2237; ad 8: cf. Colas 2218 and 2504.

Related Subjects: 18th Century  America [Central]  America [South]  Costumes  France  Germany  Militaria  Ottoman Empire  Print Series  Switzerland  Turkey 

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